Oud Amelisweerd, not far from Utrecht, was where I went to see an exhibition of historical costumes “Dress to impress”. It has soon turned out however that it was another exhibition, presented in the same beautiful building that stole the show – “Fashion Monkey”. Everything is unusual about it, the concept, the story behind it and the art pieces themselves.
And the story goes like this: “Fashion Monkey” is actually a title of a short play written in 1742 by Frederick the Great, king of Prussia on the occasion of his friend’s Baron Dietrich Cesarion von Keyserling wedding with Countess Eleonore Luise Albertine von Schlieben. The king was a very educated man, many would say intelectually sophisticated, knew a thing or two about philosophy and literature and passionately admired Voltaire. He also loved opera and enjoyed writing short plays and librettos. “Fashion Monkey” was a parody of court life with its pretentious ceremonials, exaggerated interest in clothes and one’s appearance to hide shallowness and mediocrity. Interesting as it sounds, the play was performed for only a few years and then largely forgotten, but….
In 2012 Germany was celebrating 300th birthday of King Frederick. A place very close to his heart was the Neues Palais in Potsdam-Sanssouci. He was personally involved in selecting its decorations and furnishing. The palace was not only to emphasise his power but also to express his personal taste. It is quite understandable then that the curators of Sanssouci wanted to come up with a project that would bring the interiors back to life, to give visitors a glimpse into the past. Direct inspiration came from Metropolitan Museum in New York. It was their idea to present precious, original period costumes in historically relevant interiors. Moerover, the manikins were not just standing vertically here and there. They were staged, engaging in everyday activities – sitting, having tea, chatting. Which I am sure added to the impression that you witness a moment from distant past frozen still.
Alas, Sanssouci did not have its own collection of costumes. And when you rent them they have to be presented standing upright in glass cases.
And this is when we learn about Isabelle de Borchgrave, a Belgian artist who mastered the art of recreating historical garments with just paint and paper.
With her unique technique, taking inspiration from 18th century portraits she has created beautifully elaborated paper costumes for the whole cast of King Frederick’s play. At the first glance it is hard to believe they are all made of paper. But even when you look closer you still see different textures and light effects, just like you see them on proper fabrics. A real work of love, patience and precision. You can clearly recognise semi transparent lace, shiny silk, soft velvet or stiff taffeta. Another interesting feature of ”Fashion Monkey” exhibition is that the dresses are presented (I cannot use the word “worn” here) not by manikins but on human like silhouettes made of wire. Another words – illusionary dresses on illusionary models. A bit like beautiful ghosts, which combined with the fact that the fashion we see is from over 250 years ago, makes sense.
Originally displayed in Potsdam the exhibition is now a travelling one and will stay in Oud Amelisweerd only till 23th February 2020. Not sure where is it going to go next but I understand it is looking for spaces that are coherent with its royal court ambiance. It will feel home in palaces, palatial like family homes, chateaus, manor houses and castles. If you happen to be nearby it is very much worth paying the visit to see how creativity can visually transform paper into luxurious fabrics. It is a “yes” from me.
