It seems that exhibitions dedicated to the history of fashion have found a permanent place among the extensive art collections on show at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. Following the success of the Underwear exhibition, a new one opened on 22 March 2025 with the slightly provocative title Suit Yourself. It shows the history of men’s fashion from 1750 to 1850. https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/whats-on/exhibitions/suit-yourself-or100-years-of-menswear-1750-1850
It’s not big, but excellently curated and well worth seeking out in the maze of museum corridors. To get there, head to the Special Collections section on the ground floor. After passing the room with miniatures of sailing ships, then with porcelain and jewelry, you will see beautifully embroidered silk waistcoats, jackets, housecoats, breeches and even silk socks, heeled shoes, collections of buckles and shiny buttons.
The outfits gathered in the exhibition prove that men’s fashion was not always aesthetically restrained, immersed in black, navy blue and grey. In the mid-18th century, wealthy men, like women, valued vibrant colors, rich embroidery, the glitter of gold and expensive stones in their attire. The century-long period illustrated by the exhibition had seen men’s fashion evolving from the highly ornate court costumes towards the much more modest and practical garments worn in the 19th century. This was brought about firstly by the French Revolution (1789-1799), which was averse to anything associated with royal court or absolute monarchy. The Industrial Revolution made fashionable clothes cheaper and more accessible and resulted in the emergence of new social groups: the factory workers and the bourgeoisie. In the context of fashion history, the choices of the latter are important. The bourgeoisie men preferred clothes that were more modest in form and color. This was certainly linked to their lifestyle, which often included professional activities, so their clothes had to be more practical and comfortable. Over time, the decorative richness of clothing came to be considered unmanly and acceptable only in women’s fashion. This concept, with few exceptions, is still current in fashion today.
The exhibition also highlights the differences in men’s fashion of the time in France and the Netherlands. While French fashion is characterized by flamboyance, the Dutch preferred a somewhat quieter style. However, due to close, centuries-long trade relations with the most remote regions of the world, it was Dutch fashion that more often drew inspiration from the East – Turkey, China, Japan or India. Heavy silk damask and fine cotton chinz were popular, and wealthy men liked to dress in housecoats modelled on Japanese kimonos or Turkish kaftans.
We also find evidence that recycling in fashion is not a new idea. It was always used in times of scarcity and was a common practice before the industrialization of fabric and ready-to-wear production when good quality fabric or garment was a commodity. One 18th century silk waistcoat included in the exhibition with a hand-painted floral pattern was converted from a woman’s dress (the one on the left).
It is not often that we have the opportunity to visit an exhibition dedicated to the history of menswear. Women’s dresses, hats, fans and corsets usually steal the show. Suit Yourself at the Rijksmuseum fills this gap perfectly, and the choice of the period 1750-1850 allows it to be placed in the historical context of the great social and political changes of the time. It also makes you realize that fashion is not just a fad, but a fascinating sociological phenomenon that can influence the economies and social landscape of an era. The exhibition will be opened until March 2026. Highly recommended!