This is a very special year for the Kunstmuseum in The Hague, which is celebrating the 75th anniversary of its fashion and costume collection. In fact, the history of this collection goes back even further. The museum opened in 1935, and just one year later, the then curator of the decorative arts department, Professor Frithjof W.S. van Thienen, acquired the first items, including a beautiful dress from the second half of the 18th century. During the Second World War, the costumes were stored at Noordeinde Palace in The Hague. The official start of the collection dates back to 1951, when the museum established a department of fashion and textiles, not only expanding the assortment but also undertaking research projects, conservation work and organising exhibitions dedicated to the history of fashion. From the very beginning, the collection has included items acquired through purchase as well as those donated by benefactors. Today, the Kunstmuseum holds nearly 60,000 garments and accessories. It is the largest collection of its kind in the Netherlands and one of the largest in Europe.
To celebrate this special occasion an exhibition Reflections on Fashion opened on 4th July and it will run until 3rd January 2027.
A number of guest curators, including Jan Taminiau, Tess van Zalinge, Ronald van der Kemp, Lisa Konno, Janice Deul and KledingCast were invited to contribute to the event. Their perspectives have yielded new stories, surprising combinations and a fresh approach to the collection.
So, Jan Taminiau shared his thoughts on the many shades of black over the centuries, revealing that in Spain there were once 70 of them. Lisa Konno brought together the forms of protest available through fashion. Alu Studios prepared animations based on 18th-century costumes allowing the viewer to see the dress in motion and ULKUHANBATUHAN explored the most provocative fashion combinations.
I can only imagine how hard it must have been to select pieces for the exhibit from such vast collection. You can admire the oldest pieces, from Italian 17th century silk velvet doublet, mid to late 18th century garments, up to modern designs. There is Christian Siriano’s red mini dress from 2018, worn by Lady Gaga at the performance at the Rose Bar in New York: a velvet evening dress by the same designer, worn by Billy Porter to the Golden Globe awards in 2023, and probably the most unusual outfit – a black, pregnancy wedding dress, made and worn in 1889 by Leonarda Veenendaal, a seamstress.
For me, an unexpected but very memorable experience was to be invited to see what goes on behind the scenes. An ‘open depot’ arranged in one of the exhibition rooms provides the opportunity to observe restorations up close and makes the reconstruction process tangible. Against the walls rise the shelves filled with mannequins, hat boxes and accessories needed to curate a fashion exhibition. And – that is the best part – well informed ladies wearing protective gloves can unfold selected collection pieces from the 18th, 19th and 20th century which visitors can examine inside and out – from crinolines and corsets to the hidden interior of a gown. A real treat!
Reflections on Fashion has had a large, very positive media coverage in the Netherlands.The exhibition is accompanied by a catalogue published in Dutch and in English as well as by a rich programme of public eventsincluding curators’ tours and creative workshops.
75 years of dedication and meticulous work to repair, maintain and present historical garments is indeed a milestone to be celebrated. Thank you, Kunstmuseum Team for all the beautiful and inspiring exhibitions I had an opportunity to visit over the past years. I will certainly be back for more 🙂