I stepped into dress historians’ paradise. Fashion & Textile Museum in London is celebrating the 60th anniversary of the London-based costume house, Cosprop, founded by John Bright in 1965.
His approach to film and theatre costume is very close to mine, with historical accuracy seen as an unnegotiable condition of credibility and allure of the story. He also knows what a powerful tool a good costume is for the actors to create a full bodied, convincing character.
John Bright initially worked as an actor, stage manager and costume designer. From early days he also collected historic clothes and accessories. To build his collection he visited flea markets such as Portobello Road in London or Clignancourt in Paris and also gratefully accepted donations of unwanted clothing items from family and friends.
This private collection was a starting point of the legendary Cosprop costume house. Its beginning coincided with the time when a new approach to period costume was emerging within the theatre and film industry. Until then costumes, props, make-up and hairstyles were only symbolically historical, often referring to just one aspect, usually just a silhouette. Fabrics, colors and details reflected popular culture ideas of period clothes rather than historical accuracy.
New approach required proper research in art history and social history to ensure that the characters wear costumes adequate not only to the historical moment but also to their social status.
Charge of the Light Brigade, a 1968 film proved to be a turning point for the company and the 1972 War and Peace tv production further consolidated Cosprop’s position as leading costume house. The list of productions they were involved in is long and impressive. The Pallisers (1974), Tess (1979), Brideshead Revisited (1981), Out of Africa (1985), A Room with a View (1985), Dangerous Liaisons (1988), Pride and Prejudice (1995), Titanic (1997), Gosford Park (2001), Downton Abbey (2010), Gentleman Jack (2019) or The Leopard (2024) to name just a few. Costume from many of these productions can be seen at the Fashion & Textile Museum.
The exhibition also shows the Cosprop behind the scenes, revealing each of many steps necessary to produce a stunning period costume.
Today, Cosprop employs a staff of over 40 experts including costumiers, dyers, costume makers and milliners. The Museum Collection, known as the John Bright Collection, holds over 8000 original garments, which are used as source material and inspiration. These pieces ensure that productions are historically accurate you can read in an introduction to the exhibition catalogue.
This accuracy is nowadays challenged by alternative attitudes towards film and theatre costumes, encouraging flexible approaches mixing old and new and taking historic fashion only as a guideline. I am, however, a determined advocate of historical truth in costumes, convinced that with high-definition digital cameras, uncompromised attention to authentic details will be highly valued. As a part of artful storytelling.
The exhibition spreads over two floors and it is a real feast equally for fashion history geeks like me, and for cinema goers. Looking closely at a costume from an international blockbuster like Out of Africa for example feels like bumping into a long lost friend. Can you recognize any costumes on the photos?
Cosprop is a magical place that is an important part of the nation’s rich cultural heritage. It is central to the thriving period costume industry. I believe it must be treasured and celebrated while it is still in the full flush of its success. Said Judy Dench.
The exhibition will stay open until 8th March 2026.