How does it feel to be featured in a fashion exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum?
The answer to this question may be provided by Naomi Campbell, who is the protagonist of the ongoing London exhibition Naomi: in Fashion. Visitors learn about the stages of Campbell’s fashion career, from the legendary moment she was spotted in Covent Garden at the age of 15 by model agent Beth Boldt, through her work with top photographers and designers. I was a little lacking in information about the many scandals that Naomi Campbell was once famous for. Not because I was hoping for a bit of sensation, but because it was through her feistiness that she is remembered as a colorful character with some pretty strong diva qualities.
To place her career in a broader historical context, the exhibition features profiles of Black models who were successful long before Campbell, but about whom we know little today. Dorothea Towles, the first Black model to work for top French designers in the 1950s, including Christian Dior and Elsa Schiaparelli; Sarah Lou Harris, who did some modelling while doing her Masters at the university; Princess Elizabeth of Toro, a qualified lawyer, whose modelling career began in 1967 with a charity fashion show organized by Princess Margaret, later her photographs appeared in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar; or Donyale Luna, the first Black model, whose photograph was published in 1966 on the cover of British Vogue. Their careers have been breaking barriers in the fashion world, paving the way for Campbell’s future success in 1990s.
Apart from the above the rest of the information attached to the exhibit I found a bit vague and could not read clearly the intentions behind the show. Yes, Naomi Campbell is an icon of British pop culture and the fashion world; yes, she is one of the most recognizable and influential Black women worldwide. But does it qualify her to be the theme of a major exhibition at the V & A? I am not sure.
That said, the exhibition still offers a spectacular display of stunning fashion designs by top fashion houses including Gianni Versace, John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferre, Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Valentino and many others. It will particularly resonate with the audience feeling nostalgic about 1990s and early 2000s as most of the showpieces represent exactly those times, and George Michael’s Freedom soundtrack in the background enhances the illusion of time travelling. So, there is a lot to enjoy.
I would not like to discourage anyone from visiting the exhibition, particularly if one is old enough to remember Naomi’s heydays. I have been a devoted admirer of the V & A for years, it is just that this time I feel something is missing – bigger picture maybe? Thoughts provoking ingredient?
On most occasions I struggle to keep my posts reasonably short. Today, for once, I am convinced that I have exhausted the subject.
Naomi: in Fashion will be open until 6th April 2025. https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/naomi