Mode* Chapeau is a title of a fashion exhibition opened recently, on 9th May in Centraal Museum in Utrecht, curated by Ninke Bloemberg and Lena van de Poel. I hope it will soon receive excellent reviews in the Netherlands and worldwide as it is very much worth it! https://www.centraalmuseum.nl/nl/tentoonstellingen/mode-chapeau
The show has been arranged over 5 room on 2nd floor and it showcases two absolutely beautiful, privately owned fashion collections. One belongs to Hans van Emmerik (1952) who owns the largest in the Netherlands collection of garments from the first half of 20th century. It includes gorgeous evening and ball gowns, worn by upper class ladies, made of shiny silks and opulent velvets, decorated with sequins, beads and embroidery. It is a very rare opportunity to see them. The owner regularly shows them during private presentations in his house but they are hardly ever to be seen in a museum. He collection allegedly includes nearly 300 pieces. Not all of them are displayed now in the Centraal Museum but the ones selected for the exhibition occupy three rooms and were divided into three themes: Roaring Twenties, Going out in the 1930s and Fashion Houses. The latter focusing on gowns designed and produced by fashion houses established and successfully run by women such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Callot Sisters, Jean Lanvin, Chloe or Maria Monaci. I could not find any pieces from Chanel although she is is usually opening the list of women fashion entrepreneurs.
Roaring twenties
Going out in 1930s
Fashion houses
The remaining two rooms host an absolutely unique collection of ladies’ hats, the collection that, I am sure, was the work of love and passion for its founder and owner, Tiny Meihuizen-Wijker (1944-2014). Some of the beautiful hats are as old as 1920s while the newest ones were created and worn in 1960s. In the following decade a hat was no longer seen as a necessary element of an elegant, classy attire. The collection is very large, it includes more than 1200 hats and until 2009 it was exhibited in Ms Meihuizen-Wijker’s private hat museum Gossip and Whispers in Utrecht.
See of Flowers
The hats have been grouped in three thematic areas: The Sea of Flowers (Bloemenzee) with summer hats in bright, pastel colours, very suitable for the current season 😊, Fashion Victims (Modeslachtoffers), bringing up the choices of ladies who took it slightly too far and had their hats adorned with life size, stuffed birds. The designs that meant to be very original and intriguing turned out to be a bit macabre but they are certainly unique and fun to learn about. Finally, the third hat area is dedicated to the profession of milliners and their contribution to the world of fashion. For Christian Dior a hat was an essential part of his designs, adding right proportions to the silhouette. Beautiful, sophisticated hats designed by such celebrated milliners as Madame Paulette (Pauline Adam de la Bruyere), Elsa Schiaparelli, Harry Scheltens or Fashion House Rose Valois.
Fashion Victims
1920s hats
Interestingly, amongst both the hats and the dresses exhibited in Utrecht, some are clearly and undoubtedly attributed to a fashion house or a famous designer, Paul Poiret included. Some, however are designed by an unknown artist, produced by an unknown, forgotten fashion house. Yet, they all represent top quality and lavishness, so much in line with high end fashion of the era. In some cases it is probably easier to date them precisely rather than to find the maker, since things en vogue changed rather rapidly during the 1920s and 30s, so certain details, techniques or adornments help to trace the time of production. All gowns and hats are kept in immaculate condition. In fact, they look so fresh that it takes some self discipline to follow the instruction not to touch them!
In summary, Mode*Chapeau exhibition will be a great experience for the audiences with interest in 20th century fashion, millinery, costume history, dress design, embroidery, and to all who simply enjoy looking at beautiful things. I am so impressed with this exhibition and frankly, collections of this quality could be seen in places in Victoria & Albert Museum in London, except in Utrecht it is on smaller scale so not that overwhelming. The exhibition will remain open until 29th September. Highly recommended!