What was the world like a hundred years ago, how did people live then? This is a common question, since a hundred years is for us a symbolically closed cycle, a full circle. That’s why we look back at the second decade of the 20th century with nostalgia. After all, the roaring 20s were happening right then.
A similar reflection probably motivated the creators of the exhibition 1920s From Head to Toe: Fashion from a Hundred Years Ago at the Textile Research Centre in Leiden http://www.trc-leiden.nl . However, the exhibition came to be also with the help of a fortunate coincidence.
Early in 2022 University Libraries in Leiden were about to receive a large donation of personal letters, documents, photo albums, furniture, textiles, and garments. The latter were offered to TRC and eventually enriched its already vast collection of over 43 000 items of textiles, dresses, and accessories. The donated items belonged by large to the Ottow family related to the city of Leiden for many generations and included fashionable garments from the 1920s.
The exhibition showcases over 70 pieces of mostly women’s garments from the era, beginning with daily wear, afternoon tea dresses to evening gowns. There is also an interesting display of ladies’ underwear, pajamas and sport outfits including these for swimming, tennis, and skiing! On top of that – beautiful accessories to be seen – bags, headpieces, umbrellas, gloves, and shoes. And a sewing corner with the original pedal sewing machine.
The exhibition closes, as befits a real fashion show, with a wedding dress, accompanied by a ceremonial outfit for a member of Dutch Parliament. Thanks to family photographs and documents, it is easy to determine to whom they belonged The silk wedding dress, decorated with lace and pearls, along with gloves and headpiece was worn by Giuseppina Mondelli n 1926 on the occasion of her marriage with Vincenzo Perna, while the parliamentary uniform belonged to the politician, Frederick Portheine who had been a member of the Tweede Kamer (lower chamber of the Dutch Parliament) between 1963 and 1981.
Overall, the exhibition explores how 1920s fashion radically changed female silhouette abandoning hourglass body shape for more boyish figure, not restricted by the corset, with shorter dresses just over the knees and lowered waist. All these innovations reflect changes in social and economic life. After the end of WWI more women took to paid jobs which gave them financial independence followed by more personal freedom and encouraged them to choose more comfortable outfits suitable for the new lifestyle.
The 1920 exhibition in Leiden has several indisputable advantages. It shows authentic pieces worn, sometimes made or mended, by real people from various walks of life. As the exhibition’s curator, Augusta de Gunzbourg emphasizes, the selection of garments on show stray away from a glittery and glamour Hollywood version of the roaring twenties preferred in popular culture, favouring real life and authenticity. Most of the outfits belonged to people whose lives were linked with Leiden so regardless the passage of time, the objects remain in the same geographic context and could be spotted worn in nearby streets a century ago.
Another advantage is the fact that the exhibition pieces are not presented in glass cases. Naturally, you are not allowed to touch them, but it is possible to have a close look at stiches, buttons, beading or laces and take pictures without the annoying light reflecting on the glass. It certainly prompts attention to details as well as allows to experience more of an emotional connection with people who owned these clothing in the past.
1920s Head to Toe will certainly be of interest to everyone curious about 20th century fashion history. It has a lot to offer also to visitors exploring social and economic history or even the history of feminism and women’s rights. You may be lucky to have a chat with one of TRC staff who are happy to chat about the exhibition if they have a free moment. If not, detailed printed object list and an introduction is provided in Dutch and English.
It will stay opened until mid-February 2024 Mondays to Thursdays. For opening times over Christmas and New Year period, please check the website.